L’Atelier
Via Chiatamone, Napoli
Gennaro Rubinacci opened his doors in 1932, the same year the house was founded. The atelier occupies the ground floor of a palazzo on Via Chiatamone, steps from the sea. Inside, the walls are lined with bolts of cloth from Yorkshire, Biella, and the Vomero. The cutting table is oak, scarred by seventy years of shears. The light is Neapolitan — warm, sudden, exacting.
La Spalla Camicia
The shirt shoulder — our signature
The Neapolitan shoulder is soft. It has no pad, no canvas, no structure that commands the cloth. Instead, the sleeve head is gathered by hand into small ripples — the mappina — and felled with stitches so fine they disappear into the weave. The result is a shoulder that moves like a shirt, that lives with the body rather than imposing upon it.
Le Mani
The hands that make
Each jacket requires forty hours of handwork. The canvas is laid by eye, not by machine. The lapel is pad-stitched in silk thread, rolled by thumb and palm until it curves of its own accord toward the third button. The buttonholes are opened with a beeswaxed thread and a blunt needle — four at the cuff, the last two kissing. Every stitch is a decision.
L’Uomo
The dressed man
A Rubinacci jacket is not worn; it is carried. The cloth is asked to remember a body, not to forget it. The front is cut in one pass, with no canvas in the chest. The back is a single panel, vented once for a man who walks. The result is a garment that weighs less than a letter, that moves with the wearer as a second, more elegant skin.
Correspondence
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